It all comes down to where our water comes from. San Antonio draws most of its supply from the Edwards Aquifer. When rainwater filters down through our limestone bedrock, it picks up calcium and magnesium along the way. That's just the geology we're dealing with here. The San Antonio Water System reports typical hardness of 15 to 20 grains per gallon, and I've tested homes that measured over 21 gpg. After 30 years working on San Antonio plumbing systems, I can tell you this hard water is one of the biggest challenges homeowners face.

Let me be honest with you. With hardness above 15 gpg—which is what we have here—mineral scale forms inside your pipes and appliances. It reduces water flow, shortens the life of your water heater by years, and destroys dishwashers and washing machines faster than they should fail. I've seen water heaters that should last 12 to 15 years fail in 6 years because of our hard water. A water softener removes these minerals and prevents that damage. Given San Antonio's water quality, I recommend a whole-home softener for just about every residence in this area.

Standard water softeners use a process called ion exchange. Hard water flows through resin beads that are charged with sodium or potassium ions. These beads attract and capture the calcium and magnesium, releasing sodium ions in their place. Once the resin becomes loaded with minerals, the system automatically regenerates itself by flushing salt brine through the tank. This recharges the beads and washes the captured minerals down the drain. It's proven technology that's been working reliably for decades.

Water softener size is measured in grain capacity—how much hardness the unit can remove before it needs to regenerate. San Antonio homes typically need systems rated between 32,000 and 48,000 grains because our water hardness averages 15 to 20 gpg. Larger households or homes with very hard water—say 20 gpg or higher—may need 48,000 to 64,000 grain units. Every house is different. I calculate the right size based on your household size, daily water usage, and actual tested hardness. Getting the sizing right matters—undersized units regenerate too often and waste salt, while oversized units cost more upfront without providing additional benefit.

Water softener costs vary by type and capacity. In 2025, most residential units run between $800 and $3,000 for the equipment alone. Salt-free conditioning systems start around $500, but for San Antonio's very hard water, I typically recommend salt-based units which can run $2,000 to $4,000 installed. Professional installation adds $300 to $1,000 depending on your plumbing configuration and where we're locating the unit. I'll give you an honest assessment of what your home needs—not the most expensive option, but the right solution for your water quality and budget.

Salt-based water softeners actually remove minerals through ion exchange, and they're what I recommend for water hardness above 15 grains per gallon. Salt-free systems use template-assisted crystallization to change the mineral structure rather than removing minerals. They require less maintenance, which sounds appealing, but here's the truth: they don't actually reduce water hardness, and they're less effective above 15 gpg. Given San Antonio's hardness levels—consistently 15 to 20 gpg—salt-based systems provide better protection for your plumbing and appliances. I've installed both types, and for our local water conditions, salt-based units deliver better long-term results.

No. This is a common concern, and I understand why people ask. The amount of sodium added during ion exchange is minimal—softened water remains completely safe to drink and doesn't taste salty at all. Although water softeners do remove calcium and magnesium, drinking water isn't a major source of these nutrients anyway. If you're on a sodium-restricted diet, you can use potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride in the brine tank. Or install a reverse-osmosis filter at your kitchen sink for drinking water—that removes nearly everything and gives you exceptionally pure water.

Yes, absolutely. Softened water meets all safety standards and contains very low sodium levels. I drink softened water at my own house. If you want even purer drinking water—and many people do—adding a reverse-osmosis filter under your kitchen sink provides additional purification that removes nearly all dissolved solids. But the softened water coming from your regular taps is perfectly safe for drinking, cooking, and everything else.

No, and this surprises people sometimes. A water softener only removes hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium. It doesn't reduce chlorine, chloramine taste, or water odors. If taste or smell concerns you, we can add a whole-house carbon filter or choose a water softener model that includes an integrated carbon stage. I'll assess your water quality and recommend the right combination of treatment for your specific situation.

Check your brine tank every eight weeks or whenever you can see water above the salt level. Use high-purity evaporated salt pellets—not block salt or rock salt. The cheap stuff causes buildup and bridging problems that make your system work harder and regenerate less efficiently. In San Antonio's very hard water, using quality salt pellets makes a real difference in how well your system performs. It's one of those areas where spending a few extra dollars on good salt saves you money long-term by keeping the system running efficiently.

Routine maintenance keeps your system running reliably for years. Check salt levels every 4 to 6 weeks and add more before the tank runs dry. Break up any salt bridges you find—they prevent proper regeneration. Clean the brine tank once a year, and if you notice hard water returning, use a resin cleaning product to restore the beads. I recommend scheduling a professional inspection annually to check system settings and valve operation. With proper care, the resin beads last 10 to 20 years before they need replacement.

Quality water softening systems typically last 10 to 20 years with proper maintenance. I've seen well-maintained units run 15 to 18 years without major problems. System lifespan depends on water hardness, how well you maintain it, and whether you use quality salt. Salt-free conditioning systems can last up to 20 years because they have fewer moving parts. Regular servicing, keeping salt in the tank, and periodic resin cleaning—these simple steps extend your unit's life significantly. It's an investment that protects all your other plumbing investments.

No. I get asked this question regularly, and research studies have proven that water softener regeneration discharge doesn't harm beneficial bacteria in septic systems. The salt concentration in regeneration water isn't high enough to disrupt the biological processes that make septic systems work. I've installed water softeners in homes with septic systems for three decades, and I've never seen one cause septic problems.

Test your water for hardness, pH, iron content, and chlorine levels before choosing a water softener. Many local water treatment companies offer free or low-cost testing. The San Antonio Water System publishes water quality reports showing average hardness of 15 to 20 grains per gallon, but your home may vary depending on your specific location and plumbing. I can test your water when I come out to assess your situation—accurate testing helps me recommend exactly the right system for your home, not just a generic solution.